Tests on insects collected from pavements and traffic islands in Manhattan show that their bodies contain the molecular fingerprint of junk food. Credits: New York pavement ants have taste of human food says Study | The …
Pavement Ants In Our Food Supply: Finding the Nest
The adult Mediterranean flour moth has grey fore-wings with some dark zigzag markings, and the hind wing is light grey to beige. It is distinct in its stance as it raises the front of its body, giving the wings a downward slope. The larva is white to pink in color with a brown head.The Mediterranean flour moth infests flour, cereals, bran, beans, biscuits, nuts, chocolates, dried foods and many other food stuffs. Credits: Mediterranean Flour Moth – A and H Pest Control
Let’s say you have dog food stored in a sealed plastic bag or the kind of dog food bag found in the pet section of your grocer. You bring it home and store it away in a cupboard. The Mediterranean flour moth can easily burrow through such a bag, even when it’s tightly sealed. In fact, it may have been there in the first place.
One moth can lay as many as 116-678 eggs inside the bag (we wonder who counts the eggs to come up with such exact numbers). Within 3-5 days you have up to 678 Mediterranean flour moth larvae crawling about, growing to maturity, capable of further multiplying their population in just 4-6 weeks. Next stop…459,684 moths! Do the math: 3 months later, third generation, you could have… what’s 459,684 X 678??!!
But wait, it could be worse. Imagine that a mouse chews its way into that same dog food bag and begins to transport dog food into a wall void for safe keeping. One moth locates the mouse food storage area and lays her 678 eggs there. 459,684 little moths arrive in the next generation. Again, 3 months later there are as many as 312 million Mediterranean flour moths. Since this is all happening in a hidden, inaccessible area of your home, all you see is a growing number of Mediterranean flour moths fluttering about. Things are beginning to look a bit Alfred Hitchcock!
Act Immediately: The first rule is that, since time is NOT on your side, don’t leave this situation untreated. If you see one Mediterranean flour moth in your home, you may be just 3 months away from “moth Armageddon”.
Immediately dispose of all food items that show any evidence of moth habitation. “If in doubt, throw it out.” Then vacuum and scrub every cabinet in the kitchen, and possibly in other rooms if there is evidence of moths. Be a good detective and clean even the smallest crevice and crack.
These moths are so persistent, even the most thorough cleaning can still be unsuccessful. They can hide in the outer folds of a dog food bag or flour bag. They can hide in the tiniest cracks in your cupboard, or even in the holes that make up those movable cupboard shelves.
One report has a homeowner having to actually repaint his entire kitchen before eradicating the moths!
So, let’s assume you have conquered the problem. Don’t let yourself become too overconfident. Keep checking for the next two months to be sure.
Don’t risk another infestation. Thoroughly inspect all food you bring into your home. Be aware of the expiration date. Watch especially the specialty grains.
Store all food in tightly sealed containers. Remember that these moths can bore holes in paper, cardboard or even thin plastic. Plan accordingly.
And, don’t store food for longer than a few weeks, unless it’s in a solid, air-tight, moth-proof container. Dispose of any food that has reached its expiration date.
“After thoroughly cleaning the pantry, use pheromone traps to stop any lingering moth problems. The traps use the female pheromone to lure the male moth to the trap where it becomes stuck. Other moth traps are the glass trap and the suppressing trap. The glass trap uses pheromones and water in the container to drown the pantry moth. Suppressing traps use both male and female pheromones and a glue strip.” Credits: How to Solve a Pantry Moth Problem | DoItYourself.com
These may seem like radical measures, but the cost of eradicating an active Mediterranean flour moth infestation can be far greater than the cost of prevention.
If you find pantry moths in your home and in your stored food, it’s not an indication that you did something wrong or are a poor housekeeper. Don’t beat yourself up!
The indian meal moth most likely hitched a ride into your home in the form of tiny eggs that were present in food you purchased. The eggs later hatched, the larvae consumed the food, grew to maturity, then deposited eggs elsewhere in your home. Now you have an Indian Meal Moth infestation.
Here are some examples of foods that may be hiding Indian meal moth eggs.
As you can see, Indian Meal Moth eggs can be found in a wide variety of foods.
Those small moths flying around your kitchen lights at night are likely pantry moths–especially if your doors and windows were closed, so they most possibly came from inside the house.
Do you notice small collections of tightly bunched webs along the top of your kitchen cabinets? These may be Indian Meal Moth cocoons.
Then, there are the tiny worm-like larvae. They can grow to over a half inch long and are off-white in color with black or brown heads. You might notice them on walls, close to the ceiling. They’re seeking a place to create a cocoon and turn into an adult egg-laying Indian Meal Moth.
Finally, and most obvious, you open a package of any of the foods on the list above. Inside the package you notice the small larvae, or little clumps of webs, or larvae skins. Now, if the package is not tightly sealed, you can assume the larvae exited and found a place to create a cocoon, transform to an adult, and lay eggs.
Any of the types of food listed above that are not stored in air-tight containers or in the refrigerator need to be used up within 3 weeks. In short, don’t store food for longer than 3 weeks in open, exposed containers. This includes pet food (one of the biggest culprits).
In fact, even food stored in a sealed container for long periods of time can end up with little critters. We once discovered little things crawling about in a completely sealed, unopened plastic canister of protein powder purchased over a year ago and forgotten in the back of a cupboard.
Never keep food past its expiration date. It’s just not worth it.
The fact that you’re reading this article may indicate that you already have an Indian Meal Moth infestation and just want to know how to get rid of the moths. Here are some ideas:
Immediately dispose of any food you think might contain Indian Meal Moth eggs or larvae. If you bought two packages of the same type of food on the same day from the same grocer and find one is infested, it might be wise to dispose of both. Don’t take chances.
Empty, and thoroughly clean every cupboard where you store food. Vacuum them, wash them down, and throw away the vacuum bag–outside of the house.
Empty your kitchen garbage container and thoroughly scrub it down.
Wipe down everything with white vinegar (add a few drops of essential oil like peppermint, citronella, eucalyptus or tea tree). You can also place bay leaves on your cupboard shelves and in flour and grain containers. This repels moths.
Continue to monitor your home for the presence of pantry moths and follow the simple preventative measures in the previous section.
Wouldn’t be great to walk into your home and know there are no pantry moths – and you didn’t need to lift a finger?
We’ll take care of the entire problem FOR you, and even inspect your home for the presence of other pests.
Powderpost beetles are only about 1/8 inch long, they spend most of their lives in the larval state hidden in the wood they are infesting, and emerge at night only for a few days before they breed, lay new eggs, then die.
The common element here is that it’s hard to see the beetles themselves. Most likely, you’ll only see the evidence of their presence. And that evidence will be the small pin-head sized exit holes they bore when the powderpost beetle larvae matures into an adult and exits the wood to breed.
To help you diagnose the signs of powderpost beetle damage to wood, we’ve provided the following images.
Credits: Wood Beetles, Powderpost Beetles and How to Treat Infestations …
Credits: Wood Beetles, Powderpost Beetles and How to Treat Infestations …
Credits: Wood Beetles, Powderpost Beetles and How to Treat Infestations …
Credits: Wood Beetles, Powderpost Beetles and How to Treat Infestations …
Powderpost beetle damage is done by the larvae which lives and tunnels in the wood, consuming fungus which has been deposited by the adult along with the eggs. It’s the fungus that actually breaks down the wood making it available for the powderpost beetle to digest.
The powderpost beetle eggs can exist in wood for as much as ten years before hatching, maturing larvae emerge as adults, so these pests can be extremely hard to detect.
Failure to detect and exterminate powderpost beetles can result in wood that literally crumbles into dust in your hands. If that wood is supporting the structure of your home, it’s not hard to imagine a scenario of total destruction and a plummet in resell value.
Successful extermination may require a penetrating product with a long residual, available only to a licensed pest professional.
We’re licensed, professional powderpost beetle exterminators.
New log homes, even with treated logs, can still be infested, and the hidden infestation may not become apparent until up to 10 years after construction!
Exterior siding made of cedar, pine or some other wood can be infested with powderpost beetles. Watch for the pin hole exit marks on the wood. You may need to remove and treat or replace the siding depending on the extent of the damage. You’ll also want to thoroughly inspect the underlying wood. If that is also infected and untreated, your new or treated siding will likely be reinfected.
The rule here is to treat a much larger area than the area where you see the exit pinholes. Treat all surrounding wood.
Rafters, floor joists and studs can be infected by powderpost beetles, and the damage may lie hidden for years following the construction of the home.
When remodeling, inspect inside the voids above crawl spaces and below attics for powderpost beetle damage. You’ll need to remove sheet rock and paneling.
The first line of defense here is to ventilate all crawl spaces since powderpost beetles love moist wood. This action alone may cause the powderpost beetles to stop breeding and eventually exit your home. However, you will also want to treat the wood. Fumigation may be the preferred solution here. Note that only a licensed pest exterminator is permitted to purchase and apply the product needed.
Most often the powderpost beetle eggs or larvae were already inside the wood at the time of construction. In question here are picture frames, artwork, wall units, desks, couches, statues, cabinets, chairs and tables.
Take immediate action if you discover wood with the powderpost beetle exit pinholes. You may need to strip finished furniture in order to successfully apply wood-penetrating treatment.
Here’s the scenario: The furniture came from a powderpost beetle infested home or antique shop and is itself infested. Or, the furniture was imported and had been in contact with powderpost beetle infested wood. Even refinishing that old antique dresser won’t eliminate the larvae deep within. They’ll continue to tunnel about, the eventually exit the wood and infest your home! Always check for exit pinholes before bringing any wooden object into your home.
The scenario here is a new oak floor is installed and varnished. Then, 1-5 years later the tale-tale powderpost beetle exit pinholes begin to appear, along with a fine dust powder at the exit hole. It’s most likely that the beetle problem existed in the flooring before it was installed in your home, and also likely that the manufacturer will deny this and tell you the infestation came from your home. They’ll also tell you that the infestation will die off, so just ignore it. Don’t believe this. You’ll need to treat the problem or risk the spread of infestation to your wooden furniture and even the framework and siding of your home!
We recommend stripping the entire floor and treating it with a penetrating powderpost beetle treatment. Failure to do this could mean replacing the floor at a far greater expense in a few years and potentially needing to treat all your wooden furniture and possibly your entire home. That would be a much much larger expense.
In the event you decide to replace the entire floor (the flooring manufacturer accepts responsibility and foots the bill), you might want to treat the new floor before finishing it. This will help ensure there will be no new powderpost beetle problems.
Most powderpost beetle treatments are effective in killing the larvae. The treatment acts as a poison that activates when ingested by the larvae. The problem is that the pupae (the stage between larvae and adult) doesn’t eat. Neither does the adult. The pupae can exist in the wood for up to a year or more. When the pupae matures into an adult, it exits the wood, but since it doesn’t eat wood like the larvae, treatments are ineffective. The adult emerges, then looks for a mate, and for unfinished wood in which to lay a new batch of eggs.
As you can see, a powderpost beetle problem is very difficult to eradicate.
If you notice powderpost beetle pinholes in any wood in your home, it’s best to call a licensed pest control specialist.
We found the following powderpost beetle conversations on a forum and thought we’d pass them along. Each demonstrates some aspect of these wood boring pests, and the challenges faced by those who encountered them.
Anobiid Powderpost Beetle
“I inspected a house in Golden Beach (yes, the name does represent the people who live there, that’s where those with the gold live to some extent down there in South Florida) about 10 years or so ago which was totally gone due to those buggers.
No matter where I grabbed a truss, it crumbled in my hand.
I came down and advised my client, he was buying it because it was a point lot with 400 feet on the Intra-coastal, he only wanted it inspected to see if it was safe to rent out for a year or two before tearing it down …
I told him I would not recommend it, one big wind from a hurricane and it will save him from having to tear it down – but I sure would not want someone under it when it comes down. He was getting a good buy on it too … only $3 mil back then.” Credits: Powder Post Beetles – Inspection News
“With all my experience in the PC business, I would not buy a home with Powder Post beetles. I’d run away in a heartbeat.” Credits: Powder Post Beetles – Inspection News
Lyctid Powderpost Beetle
“Pest guys will swear up and down that it will not re-infest… What a joke!!
“If you see frass hanging out of the holes it is probably active. But if you see the holes and no frass it requires monitoring, which can be costly and time consuming. You can draw a silver dollar sized circle and count or number the holes inside, come back a month or so later to see if you have more holes inside the circle. I will usually draw about ten circles and monitor them in order to determine activity. Who really wants to do this?” Credits: Powder Post Beetles – Inspection News
As you can see by these reports, powderpost beetles are not to be taken lightly. We’ve seen home inspectors and property and casualty insurance agents run the other way when they encounter powderpost beetles. We’ve seen reports of utter destruction of wooden beams and foundations which literally “crumble in your hands”, leaving “nothing between the carpet and the ground under the house”!
If you have a powderpost beetle infestation, your house may be toast as far as its resale value. However, there are ways to fight the infestation and reclaim your home.
We’re licensed pest exterminators with the required training, skill and experience treating homes and businesses with powderpost beetle issues.
It’s Spring, and powderpost beetle larvae are maturing into adults and emerging (at night) from whatever wood they’ve been inhabiting in order to lay their eggs and spread the population. And they love to live in stacks of firewood.
Powderpost beetles love moist and unfinished wood. Unless wood is kiln-dried, sanded and varnished, it makes a great home for them. And, who kiln-dries, sands and varnishes their firewood? That firewood pile on the back porch may be Disneyland to powderpost beetles.
Basically, the adult powderpost beetle lays her eggs in a small crevice on the moist, un-sanded, unvarnished wood. The eggs contain fungal spores. The eggs hatch and the larvae begin to bore into the wood, tunneling about for up to 5 years. The larvae actually feed on the fungus as it digests the wood removing toxins and making it edible.
The larvae then mature into adults, exit the wood through small pin-holes they create (a tale-tale sign). They then lay more eggs in the wood and die after a few days. The new eggs hatch and the cycle repeats until the wood literally disintegrates. Yes, you can actually pick up a chunk of firewood and watch it crumble in your hands!
Credits: 3 Common Signs of Powderpost Beetle Damage
Here’s the scenario: You bring a small stack of firewood from the back porch into your living room and it sits there for a month or so waiting to be burned. During this time a few adult powderpost beetles emerge and lay their eggs on some unfinished furniture in your home, or find an entrance through the wall into your home’s framework or siding. Once they’re out and about, they pretty much have the run of your home. And remember, they’re pretty small and only need a pin-hole sized opening to get to unfinished wood. Since the larvae do their work behind the scenes, and the adults pretty much only emerge at night, you might not discover the problem until things literally begin to fall apart or crumble before your eyes.
If you suspect a powderpost beetle problem — for example, you notice small pinholes in your furniture or siding or foundation, or you see tiny feces, especially near areas such as wooden porches, window sills and furniture, schedule a professional powderpost beetle pest inspection. This is one problem you do not want to ignore. Powderpost beetles, left untreated, can do as much damage to wood as termites!
Powderpost beetles are small wood-boring pests that can do great damage to your furniture and home. The problem begins when an adult powderpost beetle lays eggs in exposed wood (for example, furniture, your home’s framework, foundation or siding). When the eggs hatch, the powderpost beetle larvae do the damage. They feed on the wood, tunneling through it, for up to 5 years. The larvae then mature to adults and exit the wood looking for a mate (usually in the Spring). Powderpost beetles might live only a few days as adults. Once they find a mate, they lay eggs in the wood, die, and the cycle repeats, only with more powderpost beetles drilling around inside the wood, consuming it and turning it to dust!
Image credits: How to Tell if you Have Powder Post Beetle Damage | Sunstate Pest …
Learn more about three types of powderpost beetles, what wood each loves to eat, and how to differentiate them based on the exit holes they make in wood, and the sawdust they push out of their exit holes as they mature.
Look closely at the wood that makes up your home, and at furniture, particularly furniture in storage or furniture that you may have purchased as used or as antiques. Any wood that was imported is particularly susceptible. Why? Not all countries observe proper kiln drying standards for lumber, and powderpost beetles love lumber that is damp. If you built something using old wood that had been lying around in a garage, basement or barn, that is also susceptible. Wood siding, flooring or framing that has been stored in damp conditions without good ventilation is also susceptible.
Look for small pinhole marks in the wood. These marks represent the exit holes the powderpost beetles made after they matured into adults. You might also notice very fine sawdust, called frass, at the base of the wood. The beetles push this sawdust out of the hole as they exit.
First, make sure that the powderpost beetles are still active. You can do this by cleaning up any sawdust (frass) they’ve created, then return later to see if there is new sawdust.
Second, dry out the location and provide proper ventilation around the wood. Simply by drying out the environment, you may entice the bugs to move elsewhere.
Third, sand and varnish the wood. This will prevent any powderpost beetles from laying new eggs in the wood. They can only lay their eggs in unfinished wood. However, if there are powderpost beetle larvae already in the wood varnishing the wood will not solve the problem (remember they live and tunnel about, consuming wood for up to 5 years causing a lot of damage).
Fourth, if you suspect that there might be an active infestation (living powderpost beetle larvae tunneling about inside the wood), you’ll want to contact a pest control professional. One of the most effective methods for eliminating powderpost beetles is fumigation with a pesticide that only a licensed pest exterminator is allowed to purchase.
So, if you see small pinholes in that antique table you recently purchased, or in your home’s siding or framework, or in the wood you brought up from the basement to use in your latest home improvement project… don’t ignore the issue. The integrity of your home could be compromised by a powderpost beetle problem.
You don’t need to panic, as the beetles do their damage slowly over time, giving you enough time to assess the problem and take the appropriate action. For example, do the above test (sawdust cleanup) this Spring, then check again next Spring to see if there is new sawdust.
But don’t ignore the problem. As they say, “The wheels of justice grind slowly, but they grind exceedingly fine.” Same with the work of powderpost beetles! Leave them to do their work and they’ll eventually disintegrate the wood they infest. In addition, when you go to resell your home at some point, imagine the value dropping drastically when the buyer’s home inspector discovers a powderpost beetle problem that was left untreated. Bad Bad!
We came across this carpenter ant DIY treatment the other day and thought we’d give our professional evaluation.
A smart, environmentally conscious home owner experienced a resurgence of carpenter ants in her home after a 20-year absence of the ants. They were coming up through a dishwasher drain, traveling in numbers and swarming in the home. It was pretty scary, especially to the children.
The homeowner came up with this very inexpensive (less than $1) DIY treatment:
“Boric acid is a colorless white powder that is a mild antiseptic, but certainly not a problem to the health of your family even if you touch it with ungloved hands. It is found in nature in some volcanic environments near Tuscany and Nevada. Boric acid and its salts are found in seawater and plants including almost all fruits.
Of course, you need to keep it away from small children as it is poisonous if ingested or inhaled in large quantities, but it is probably the least toxic form of insect bait you can use around your home with the exception of diatomaceous earth, which unfortunately doesn’t work as well or as quickly for large ants where I live.”
Credits: Safely Get Rid of Carpenter Ants in a Snap | The Healthy Home …
The smart homeowner placed a mixture of the treatment in an empty jar lid by the dishwasher drain, the ants took the bait back to their nest, and happily disappeared from the home.
The treatment appeared to have worked, saving a call to the pest control company, and the expense of that professional service.
On the surface, this looks like a great solution. There were carpenter ants in the home. $1 and some ingenuity and creativity made them disappear.
However, there’s an all important question that needs to be asked: “What is the original goal here?”
We assume the original goal is to rid the home of carpenter ants, which have the ability to do damage to the structure of a home. This damage will most certainly be discovered during a professional home inspection at some point by a prospective home buyer when the homeowner goes to sell the home. When the damage is discovered, it will adversely affect the selling value of the home. In fact, the loss in value will make a few visits by a professional pest inspector look like the true bargain in comparison.
But let’s delve into this issue a bit further. Carpenter ants seldom live in one colony. A common scenario is a main colony, perhaps outside the home, with as many as 12 satellite colonies both outside and inside the home.
Now let’s fast forward to that home buyer’s inspection of our carpenter ant DIY treatment homeowner’s house. They not only discover the wood damage from the first satellite colony, but, let’s be conservative, they find 3 more active satellite colonies in the foundation and frame of the house that were not noticed by the homeowner. Each satellite colony, as it was left to grow, has created even more progressive damage to the home.
But let’s delve into this issue even further. Remember the main colony and additional satellite colonies outside the house? Again, let’s be conservative and say that the home buyer’s inspector discovers that main colony in some rotten stump, rotten fence or wood pile outside the home, along with 2 additional satellite colonies (total of six in all, more conservative than the possible dozen or more carpenter ant colonies).
Now the drop in home value could potentially cut into the children’s college fund or the homeowner’s retirement.
So, on the surface, this smart DIY treatment that cost only $1 and appeared to work potentially ends up costing the homeowner $10,000-$30,000 or more (still being conservative), in the process compromising financial security and well being.
While a homeowner can possibly eliminate visible carpenter ants with a DIY treatment (and the one we described is one of the best), it really takes a professional to track down every satellite colony and the main nest. You’ll need to follow the carpenter ant scent trails, and that’s a skill that professionals have, along with the tools needed.
In addition, a good pest control professional will evaluate the damage to the home and suggest necessary repair.
But the value of a good pest control professional does not stop there. A good pest control professional will also discover other issues that need attention such as the hidden presence of termites, mice or cockroaches.
The happy result of this scenario is that the health of the family is protected (some pests carry very harmful bacterial germs and viruses), and the resell value of the home along with the families greater financial security is also supported.
So, you as a homeowner have a choice. You can use the great DIY carpenter ant treatment we’ve given in this article and hope you’ve eliminated the problem. Or, you can call a good pest control professional and KNOW you’ve eliminated the carpenter ant pest problem, other possible pest problems and discovered any damage to your home, any leaky pipes, gutters, leaky roof issues that are slowly rotting the wood of your home.
We care about the safety of your family, the condition of your home and your long-term financial security.
The older your home, the more carpenter ants and termites love it. Why? Because an older home is more likely to have a leaky roof, leaky gutters or drippy old plumbing. Why do these insects love water leaks? Because when leaks drip onto wood, especially over long periods of time, the wood softens and rots. This makes the wood more available for these insects either for burrowing or for a food source.
The preferred food is our first clue as to whether it’s a carpenter ant or a termite. Termites eat wood and therefore cause major destruction to the structure of homes. On the other hand, carpenter ants do not eat wood. They merely burrow into wood to create a home. Carpenter ants eat just about any food that you eat: Sweet food, greasy food, meat, grain. If it’s available to carpenter ants (sitting around the house in an unsealed container), they’ll go for it.
Now this presents another clue as to the difference between a carpenter ant and a termite. You’ll more likely see the carpenter ant going for your food. On the other hand, termites will be hidden away eating the foundation and structure of your home!
Carpenter ants have angled antennae. Their bodies are divided into three sections with a thin waist. Finally, they are dark brown or black. The reproductive version of carpenter ant–the one with wings, has uneven wings.
Image Credits: Ants, Ants and More Ants – Epcon Lane
On the other hand, termites have straight antennae. Their bodies are divided into only two sections: The lower section looks a bit like a grain of rice. They have no narrow waist. Termites are a white/tan color. The reproductive version of termite–the one with wings, is lighter brown (vs. brown/black carpenter ant), and their wings are equal in length.
Image Credits: Ants, Ants and More Ants – Epcon Lane
Image Credits: What is the Difference Between Termites and Carpenter Ants?
The third great distinction between a carpenter ant and a termite is how wood looks after they’ve attacked it. Carpenter ants create smooth burrows or channels in wood. As they excavate, they push the sawdust out of the wood channels (remember they don’t eat wood), and the fine sawdust forms small piles called “frass”.
On the other hand, termites simply eat the wood until it falls apart! Subterranea n termites don’t like to be exposed, so they create mud tunnels from the earth to the wood they want to eat. These mud tunnels are another sign your home is infested with termites rather than carpenter ants.
Carpenter ants are very mobile. Unlike termites they don’t care if they’re exposed. They will travel (mostly at night) up to 100 feet from their nest, and even create satellite nests. You could have a dozen or more carpenter ant satellite nests on your property or in your home. Unless you manage to locate and destroy them all, you’ll never rid your home of carpenter ants.
Termites, as we said, are more likely to be hidden in places you don’t normally visit–for example in the foundation under your home, in the wood beneath the home’s siding, and in those mud tunnels they create which mostly exist where you will not likely see them.
Of course, since termites eat your home, their damage is greater. In fact, more homes are destroyed each year due to termite damage than to fire. However, carpenter ants are also damaging your home. Therefore, it’s vital that you exterminate both carpenter ants and termites in or near your home.
Consider the value of your home. Do you really want to trust this to a DIY job? Save a few bucks and lose your home, or destroy its resale value?
P.S. Since both carpenter ants (who are active mostly at night) and termites (who love to remain hidded) can be in your home without you knowing, it’s a good policy to have your home inspected, especially if you have not had a professional pest inspection in the past few years.
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